7 p.m.

　　晚上7:00

　　3. Party Like It’s 1929

　　3. 來派對(duì)吧，就像1929年一樣

　　Shanghai’s historic Bund hasn’t looked this good since Noël Coward and Charlie Chaplin were party guests in the city’s glamorous prewar years. As part of the city’s sprucing-up for the 2010 World Expo, the concession-era strip underwent a three-year restoration that moved most of the traffic underground and widened the riverside promenade to create a pleasant place to stroll in the evenings (minus the crowds). Several iconic properties have also recently returned to their former splendor. Splurge on a 500-renminbi glass of Yao Ming’s cabernet sauvignon — or a more reasonably priced bottle from the extensive wine list — on the rooftop bar at the House of Roosevelt, a neo-Classical building restored by a company run by Theodore Roosevelt’s great-grandson Tweed. Or drop by the Long Bar at the Waldorf Astoria, a 110-foot-long recreation of the original Long Bar at the former Shanghai Club, an exclusive British gentleman’s club that became a KFC in the 1990s.

　　在上海戰(zhàn)前的光彩歲月，諾埃爾·科沃德(Noël Coward)和查理·卓別林(Charlie Chaplin)曾是這里的派對(duì)賓客，而自那以來，上海有著歷史意義的外灘，從沒像現(xiàn)在這樣美麗。作為迎接2010年世博會(huì)的城市面貌改造的一部分，這一從租界時(shí)代保留下來的狹長地帶經(jīng)過了三年重修，大部分交通被轉(zhuǎn)移至地下，江邊的人行道經(jīng)過拓寬，為人們?cè)谕黹g散步時(shí)創(chuàng)造了一個(gè)更愉悅的環(huán)境(如果不考慮擁擠人群的話)。一些標(biāo)志性建筑最近也重現(xiàn)往昔風(fēng)采。在羅斯福公館的屋頂酒吧，你可以花500元，奢侈地喝上一杯姚明推出的赤霞珠葡萄酒，或者是從豐富的酒單中選一瓶價(jià)格更為適中的酒。羅斯福公館是一座新古典風(fēng)格建筑，由西奧多·羅斯福(Theodore Roosevelt)的曾孫德爾·羅斯福(Tweed Roosevelt)經(jīng)營的公司重新修復(fù)。你還可以到華爾道夫酒店的廊吧坐一坐，這里的吧臺(tái)長約34米，再現(xiàn)了過去上�？倳�(huì)(Shanghai Club)的廊吧。上�？倳�(huì)是過去駐滬英國僑民的專屬俱樂部，后來在上世紀(jì)90年代改造成一家肯德基(KFC)餐廳。

　　8 p.m.

　　晚上8:00

　　4. A Movable Feast

　　4. 流動(dòng)的盛宴

　　Jason Atherton is building quite a culinary empire in Asia. The Michelin-starred chef behind Pollen Street Social in London has opened six restaurants in Shanghai, Hong Kong and Singapore since 2010, including the new Commune Social, a playful tapas restaurant where eating a meal feels more like barhopping. First, small plates of miso-grilled mackerel with wasabi avocado and cucumber chutney (88 renminbi) and oysters with Vietnamese dressing (48 renminbi each) are served at the informal tapas bar overlooking the busy kitchen. Next, diners head to the narrow, white-tiled dessert bar to watch the South African pastry chef Kim Lyle make inventive desserts like goat’s cheese, yogurt sorbet and honeycomb frozen with liquid nitrogen (55 renminbi). The last stop is the hidden cocktail bar upstairs for a PBJ (cognac, cherry brandy, peanut butter, strawberry jelly; 88 renminbi), a nightcap that doubles as a midnight snack.

　　賈森·阿瑟頓(Jason Atherton)正在亞洲建造一個(gè)餐飲帝國。自2010年起，這位米其林星級(jí)大廚、倫敦寶侖街社交場餐廳(Pollen Street Social)的老板已在上海、香港和新加坡開了六家餐廳，其中包括新開的食社(Commune Social)，這是一家有趣的西班牙小吃餐廳，在那里吃飯更像是泡吧。首先，在有著開放式廚房的隨意小吃區(qū)品嘗小碟的“味噌烤鯖魚，芥末牛油果，黃瓜酸辣醬”(88元)、牡蠣佐越式甜辣醬(每只48元)。接下來再轉(zhuǎn)移到鑲著白色瓷磚的狹窄的甜品區(qū)，在那里欣賞餅房總廚金萊爾(Kim Lyle)制作別出心裁的甜點(diǎn)，比如“羊酪，酸奶冰糕，(液氮冷凍)的蜂巢糖”(55元)。最后再到二樓有些隱蔽的雞尾酒吧，享用一杯花生兄愛果醬妹(干邑、櫻桃白蘭地、花生醬和草莓果醬，88元)，睡前喝這一杯也可以算作午夜的小零食。

　　SATURDAY

　　周六

　　10 a.m.

　　上午10：00

　　5. Powerful Art

　　5. 震撼的藝術(shù)

　　Shanghai could never be criticized for lack of ambition. Not content with being merely a financial hub, the city has been on a museum building spree in recent years to establish itself as a global arts center, too. One of the more promising institutions is the Power Station of Art, which opened last October in a late 19th-century power plant that was renovated for the 2010 Expo. With its industrial feel and focus on modern art, the museum feels similar to the Tate Modern, and it’s already hosted several major exhibitions, including the Shanghai Biennale and the largest collection of Andy Warhol’s art in Asia (though the Mao Zedong portraits were left out for obvious reasons). After checking out the art, take in the view of the barges chugging lazily up the Huangpu River from the expansive fifth-floor deck.

　　上海永遠(yuǎn)不會(huì)被批判缺乏抱負(fù)。這座城市不滿足只當(dāng)一個(gè)金融中心，近幾年一直在大舉修建博物館，要將自己打造成一個(gè)全球藝術(shù)中心。其中頗有發(fā)展前景的機(jī)構(gòu)之一便是上海當(dāng)代藝術(shù)博物館。這家博物館于去年10月開放，在一個(gè)為2010年世博會(huì)翻新的19世紀(jì)末電廠的基礎(chǔ)上建成。這座頗具工業(yè)特色的博物館將重點(diǎn)放在當(dāng)代藝術(shù)上，感覺有些像泰特現(xiàn)代美術(shù)館(Tate Modern)，而且它已經(jīng)辦過幾個(gè)大型展覽，包括上海雙年展以及亞洲最大的安迪·沃霍爾(Andy Warhol)作品回顧展(盡管由于顯而易見的原因，那幅毛澤東的畫像沒能參展)。參觀完藝術(shù)作品后，可以到空間開闊的五樓咖啡廳，看駁船在黃浦江上轟隆隆地緩慢前行。

　　Noon

　　中午

　　6. Healthful Eats

　　6. 健康飲食

　　In response to China’s mounting food safety concerns, many local restaurants are now taking a healthier approach to cooking, such as Jian Guo 328, which prides itself on using only high-quality cooking oil, filtered water and no MSG. (The Taiwanese owner also bans smoking.) Menu standouts are all Shanghainese favorites: cong you ban mian (noodles in scallion oil; 18 renminbi), xie fen dou fu (custard-like tofu with flakes of crab and crab roe; 32 renminbi) and shi zi tou mian (a giant pork meatball in noodle soup; 28 renminbi). Not only is the food deliciously authentic, it’s much lighter than other local joints.

　　為了回應(yīng)中國日益加劇的食品安全擔(dān)憂，本地許多餐館現(xiàn)在對(duì)烹飪有了更健康的態(tài)度，建國328小館就是一個(gè)例子。這家餐館引以為豪的是，只使用高質(zhì)量的烹飪用油和純凈水，而且不使用味精。(來自臺(tái)灣的老板還禁止在店里抽煙。)菜單上出彩的菜品都是上海特色：蔥油拌面(18元)、蟹粉豆腐(32元)、獅子頭面(28元)。這里的食物美味又正宗，也比本地的其他食肆更清淡。

　　2 p.m.

　　下午2:00

　　7. Designer District

　　7. 設(shè)計(jì)區(qū)

　　With its charming villas and bohemian vibe, the former French Concession has become a magnet for artists and designers opening boutiques. Dong Liang Studio is the place to find rising fashion talents, such as Christopher Bu, the stylist for the Chinese “it” girl Fan Bingbing. At Brut Cake, Nicole Teng makes tote bags and upholstered furniture using old Chinese fabrics. Down the street, stop at the Japanese designer Mayumi Sato’s shop for women’s clothes of brightly patterned organic cottons, silks and vintage kimono fabrics; and Piling Palang for Deng Bingbing’s exquisite ceramic and cloisonné pieces.

　　這里有迷人的別墅和波西米亞的氛圍，過去的法租界現(xiàn)在已經(jīng)成了藝術(shù)家和設(shè)計(jì)師開設(shè)精品店的熱門場所。在棟梁工作室，你能找到正在冉冉升起的時(shí)尚人才，比如中國當(dāng)紅女星范冰冰的造型師卜柯文(Christopher Bu)。Brut Cake的鄧乃瑄(Nicole Teng)使用中國老式的織物制作手提袋和軟墊家具。繼續(xù)沿著街走，就會(huì)與日本設(shè)計(jì)師Mayumi Sato的女裝店鋪相遇。這里的衣物圖案明亮，采用有機(jī)的棉、絲面料，以及復(fù)古的和服面料。在Piling Palang，能觸摸到鄧兵兵精致的陶瓷作品和景泰藍(lán)物件。

　　4 p.m.

　　下午4:00

　　8. Dancing With the Retirees

　　8. 與退休老人共舞

　　When you’re all shopped out, a respite awaits on the other side of the former French Concession in Fuxing Park, where elderly Shanghainese come for gossip — and a bit of a show. Old men in Mao jackets chain-smoke and play cards on park benches, drawing hordes of onlookers, while small troupes of musicians gather in hidden corners to sing Peking opera classics. The main attraction, however, happens beneath the towering plane trees in the center of the park where well-dressed couples show off their best ballroom dancing moves to syrupy Chinese love songs.

　　購物過后，在前法租界對(duì)面的復(fù)興公園可以休憩片刻。上海的老人們常常來這里閑談，有時(shí)也展示一下自己。身穿中山裝的老先生們坐在公園的長凳上，一邊打牌，一邊一根接一根地抽煙，吸引了很多人前來圍觀。小群小群的票友躲藏在角落里唱京劇。而最吸引人的景象，就發(fā)生在公園中間高高的法國梧桐樹下。在那里，一對(duì)對(duì)衣著考究的舞者，和著婉轉(zhuǎn)的中文情歌翩翩起舞。

　　7:30 p.m.

　　下午7:30

　　9. Cinematic Cuisine

　　9. 電影一般的餐廳

　　If the 1960s Hong Kong diner décor at Cha’s Restaurant looks like a movie set, that’s because it is. Well, sort of. Charlie Hau, a Hong Kong movie producer, opened a traditional cha chaan teng (tea restaurant) in Shanghai after struggling to find authentic Cantonese food while shooting the Ang Lee film “Lust, Caution.” Mr. Hau’s cinematic expertise ensured that every detail was perfect, from the leather-backed booths and 1960s china patterns to a menu that includes Hong Kong staples like poached chicken in soy sauce (60 renminbi for a half-bird) and pineapple buns (8 renminbi). Cha’s has become a hit with the Hong Kong diaspora, as well as trendy young Shanghainese with dyed hair and high-tops, so be prepared for a wait.

　　如果說查餐廳(Cha’s Restaurant)里，上世紀(jì)60年代風(fēng)情的香港餐廳裝潢讓它看起來像是一處拍電影的片場，那是因?yàn)樗�的確是，或者說基本上是。香港的電影制片人侯杰輝(Charlie Hau)在參與拍攝李安(Ang Lee)的電影《色，戒》時(shí)，在尋找正宗的粵式菜品方面歷盡艱辛，于是干脆自己在上海自己開了一家傳統(tǒng)的茶餐廳。侯杰輝在電影業(yè)的專業(yè)知識(shí)，確保從皮質(zhì)靠背的座椅，到上世紀(jì)60年代的瓷器花紋等每個(gè)細(xì)節(jié)都完美無瑕。菜單上囊括了主打的港式菜品，如玫瑰豉油雞(60元半只)和菠蘿包(8元)。查餐廳不僅在旅居上海的香港人中很受歡迎，在染著各色頭發(fā)腳穿高幫帆布鞋的時(shí)髦上海青年中也很受歡迎，所以要做好等位的心理準(zhǔn)備。

　　10:30 p.m.

　　晚上10:30

　　10. Spanish Speakeasy

　　10. 西班牙小酒館

　　Shanghai’s cocktail scene has become highly competitive in recent years, with a constantly revolving door of new speakeasy-style bars and enterprising mixologists. One bar, however, has separated itself from the pack: the Barcelona native Willy Trullás Moreno’s El Cóctel, which combines Spanish-style décor (leather ottomans, exposed brick walls, a floral ceiling design by a Barcelona artist) with one of the most colorful drinks menus in town (the Late Night Tale, 84 renminbi, for instance, is made with Tennessee whisky, Canadian maple syrup, coffee — and a side of insomnia). For a night spot with more bounce, pull up a stool outside one of the shoe-box bars on Yongkang Road — a former vegetable market that has become a raucous bar street popular with the fixed-gear-bike-riding expat community.

　　上海主打雞尾酒的酒吧近幾年來競爭十分激烈，一家又一家地下風(fēng)格的酒吧開了又關(guān)，調(diào)酒師也總是換來換去。然而有一家酒吧卻卓爾不群，那就是巴塞羅那人威利·特魯拉斯·莫雷諾(Willy Trullás Moreno)開的El Cóctel。這家店既有西班牙式的裝潢(皮革腳凳、裸露的磚墻，以及一位巴塞羅那藝術(shù)家設(shè)計(jì)的花紋天花板)，又有滬上最異彩紛呈的酒單，例如84元一杯的“深夜故事”(Late Night Tale)，內(nèi)含田納西威士忌、加拿大楓糖、咖啡，還要再加上一點(diǎn)點(diǎn)失眠。如果你在夜晚想找一個(gè)更熱鬧的所在，不如到永康路去，在鞋盒一樣狹窄的酒吧外，坐在高凳上啜飲。這里曾經(jīng)是一個(gè)菜市場，但現(xiàn)在已經(jīng)成了喧鬧的酒吧街，派駐上海的外國人中總喜歡騎著死飛在這里穿梭。

　　SUNDAY

　　周日

　　10:30 a.m.

　　上午10:30

　　11. Sidewalk Snacks

　　11. 路邊小吃

　　Breakfast in China is best enjoyed on the street, still piping hot from the wok or steamer. The only difficulty is deciphering a Chinese menu. UnTour Shanghai (untourshanghai.com), a street culinary tour company, simplifies the process by doing the ordering for you. The Dumplings Delights tour (400 renminbi) spans the breadth of China, from cabbage-filled jiao zi eaten in wintry northeastern China to delicate shrimp almond pastries from southern China and, of course, Shanghai’s famous xiao long bao (soup dumplings) — all in a two-square-block area. Fortunately, there’s enough walking between stops to justify such gluttony, though in anything-goes Shanghai, you’ll need little excuse.

　　中國的早餐最好在剛出鍋或出籠時(shí)，熱騰騰地在街頭享用。唯一的困難是搞不明白中文的菜單寫的是什么。帶你品嘗街頭美食的旅游公司UnTour上海游(untourshanghai.com)，可以幫你點(diǎn)單，簡化這個(gè)過程。“包餡小吃”(Dumpling Dlights)之旅(400元)可以在方圓兩個(gè)路口的范圍內(nèi)，讓你嘗到中國各地的美味小點(diǎn)，既有來自寒風(fēng)凜冽的中國東北的白菜餡餃子，又有南方精致的杏仁蝦球，當(dāng)然更少不了大名鼎鼎的上海小籠包。幸運(yùn)的是，每一餐之間行走的距離足夠遠(yuǎn)，完全有理由大快朵頤。不過在無所不有的上海，你根本不需要什么借口。

　　THE DETAILS

　　詳細(xì)地址

　　1. Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center, 100 Renmin Avenue; supec.org.

　　1. 上海城市規(guī)劃展示館，人民大道100號(hào);supec.org。

　　2. Rockbund Art Museum, 20 Huqiu Road; rockbundartmuseum.org.

　　2. 上海外灘美術(shù)館，虎丘路20號(hào);rockbundartmuseum.org。

　　3. House of Roosevelt, 27 East Zhongshan First Road; 27bund.com. Waldorf Astoria, 2 East Zhongshan First Road;

　　3. 羅斯福公館，中山東一路27號(hào);27bund.com。華爾道夫酒店，中山東一路2號(hào);

　　4. Commune Social, 511 Jiangning Road; communesocial.com.

　　4. 食社，江寧路511號(hào);communesocial.com。

　　5. Power Station of Art, 200 Huayuangang Road; powerstationofart.org.

　　5. 上海當(dāng)代藝術(shù)博物館，花園港路200號(hào);powerstationofart.org。

　　6. Jian Guo 328, 328 West Jianguo Road, 86-21-6471-3819.

　　6. 建國328小館，建國西路328號(hào)，86-21-6471-3819。

　　7. Dong Liang Studio, 184 Fumin Road, 86-21-3469-6926. Brut Cake, 232 Anfu Road, brutcake.com. Mayumi Sato, 169 Anfu Road; mayumisato.com. Piling Palang, 183 Anfu Road.

　　7. 棟梁工作室，富民路184號(hào)，86-21-3469-6926。Brut Cake，安福路232號(hào);brutcake.com。Mayumi Sato，安福路169號(hào);mayumisato.com。Piling Palang，安福路183號(hào)。

　　8. Fuxing Park, 2 Gaolan Road.

　　8. 復(fù)興公園，皋蘭路2號(hào)。

　　9. Cha’s Restaurant, 30 Sinan Road; 86-21-6093-2062.

　　9. 查餐廳，思南路30號(hào)，86-21-6093-2062。

　　10. El Cóctel, 47 Yongfu Road, el-coctel.com.

　　10. El Cóctel，永福路47號(hào);el-coctel.com。

　　11. Dumplings Delights tour, UnTour Shanghai; untourshanghai.com.

　　11. 包餡小吃之旅，UnTour上海游;untourshanghai.com。